Brand Addict

In a world of consumer tastes, branding, corporate sponsorship and over expensive clothing, and that includes the surf industry, I have to admit that I have been committed to one brand since the age of thirteen. For twenty six years now I have found great pleasure in dressing my old feet in Vans. All those years ago my folks took me to a skate shop in Brighton for my birthday and bought me a pair of black,white and red checked lace up and have been hooked like and addict ever since, stoked on style. In 26 years I fell off the wagon briefly and wore airwalk whilst owning and running a BMX shop, however, the Vans were never far away in the cupboard. I have only dabbled in recreational footwear such as Adidas and Nike but the purity of the original skate shoe is in my veins. When confronted with footwear dilemas, I just say no!

"Green Hut"

When Jersey waterman Nigel Oxenden returned from his global travels post World War One he created the Island Surf Club. This part of their cultural history still remains above the beach at St Oens. A green corogated hut, stands alone, proud in its ancestry. Built as his beach house around 1923 the "green hut" became the focus of surfing in Jersey where friends and travellers would meet and share their stories and develop their celebrated place in European surfing. I believe the Jersey Surf Club was formed in 1959 and still welcomes visitors from all over the world.

Wave Dreamer

A shot of my good friend and film maker Rich Gregory. Like myself, Rich hails from Brighton on the South Coast and he made to the move to the Woolocoombe, North Devon to follow his passion for surf and filming. If you haven't had the pleasure of viewing 'Not California' then this is must see, a look at surfing in Brighton, with an original soundtrack this was his first film but easily filled a 300 seat cinema on its premiere and greeted with overwhelming applause . Rich has always got some film project on the go and has a huge stock of great footage from the likes of Tyler and Alex Knost in Devon and Ireland but especially the local surfers up there in Devon. He's currently in the process of updating his website and as soon as this is ready to roll I'll let you know. Sure to be filled with great snippets of film and tasty links.

Local lifeguard James Buckley taking the drop on a Sennen right.

Jersey Man

Joe Davies, absolute style in his heats. If it were possible to transport the present day surfers back to perform against or even surf alongside those legends of the sixties I reckon it would be an interesting scenario. Surfers such as Dora, Phil edwards, Nat Young, keith Paull, Peter Drouyn, David Nuuwiha and Lance Carson who played such a huge roll in the development of individual styles and whose approaches to surfing have forever influenced surfers since their day. I wonder how they would match up.

A mellow looking wave. Rainy day here in West Penwith after a couple of sunny days. However, mad dogs and englishmen will still be down the beach with their tents, windbreaks and numerous bat and ball games, my favourite this summer is family cricket in the rain in wetsuits, never give in.

Beach defence

Dating back to 1776 General Conway, one of the Governors of Jersey wanted to build 32 towers around the island to protect them from the French. La Rocco Tower at the South end of St Oens beach is a formidable presence along that stretch of coastline and was completed after his death around the end of the century. This almost seemed like hundreds of years ago with the tall ship leaving St Hellier port which is futher round the headland. I believe that is also Corbiere lighthouse in the background. Next time I go back the family is coming along, there's too much too see and so much history to discover.

One Year Aniversary

I started this blog one year ago and have tried to keep up the quality of my photos and keep you all up to date with things occuring down here in the wild west. I hope those of you who do check in every now and then like what you see and over the next year will keep it rolling on. Thought I would add this photo of me and Jago, stylin in the panamas.

Go Ford.

After yesterdays rant about jet skis and some very honest comments, which I'm very grateful to receive, it would seem that water users find them a great rescue aid but only if used properly. Anyway moving on and back to the swell in hand. Howling westerlies are the order of the day, although I have just had a sneaky surf at a sneaky spot with my friend Olly Clark. Olly has organised the Wheels of Fire Skate comp for the past two yearts and tommorrow is taking some youngsters to the Penzance bowl to start their skate tutition as part of the Fire brigades community projects. His son Ford has just been to see his surgeon as when he was born 11 years ago he had complications with his foot. After being told he would not be able to be that active, Ford has proved them wrong and now skates the bowl and won the sports person of the year for Sennen school. The family took my photos of Ford skating to show the surgeon and was so impressed with Ford's resolve he wants to use the photos as an incentive to other youngsters who may find themselves in a similar situation. Motto: Prove the buggers wrong.

Ban the Jet Ski.

After Surfing yesterday at Sennen i have finally cracked. I can hold my anger no longer, I have come to the conclusion that the lifeguards at Sennen beach are on their own planet, not ours. After red flagging the beach all morning due to some good size swell they decide to open a small area for swimmers. I wish for the day when a lifeguard in Sennen would get on a paddleboard and coral the swimmers, talk to them face to face, get to know their customers and earn their money. Instead we had the air raid siren, whistles, quad bike hooter, load hailer, and then to top it off they launched the jet ski. Bearing in mind that no swimmer is out of their reach if they were on a board, these poor tourists were circled in a haze of two stroke fumes for the afternoon with the ski coming in turning fast and heading back out and going between the swimmers. A number of us watched in amazement and not a good word was said by any. The surfers were then subjected to a lifeguard riding in and out of the set waves and up and down the beach. At one point there were also Dolphins out yesterday, I wonder what they think is happening to Sennen. Our lifeguards seem to have lost the plot. If they lose the ski in the swimming area people will get hurt, try taking off the helmets, put a wetsuit on and paddle those rescue boardsor atleast put a wetsuit on and get amongst the tourists in waist depth water, let the people see who you are and build a relationship with surfers and tourists, you may find people more responsive than being coralled by a quarter ton machine that pollutes our beautiful environment. I'm aware you have a duty of care, a responsibility to the people in the water but how many people will continue to come back if they're memory of Sennen is not the sweet smell of coconut oil but petrol, not the sound of kids and families playing but a whining engine. Please Mr Lifeguard, ask yourselve is it really necessary to launch a jet ski or is their a more people friendly way to manage the tourists safety? How many people will become a member the RNLI if that is the all they remember? I subscribed eight years ago to support the RNLI lifeboat crews not to put fuel in a Jet Ski. Apology for the rant, back to my happy place tommorrow.

Another Sennen Seedling

This is another one of the up and comers from down our way in West Penwith. Mike Lay is developing his style and speed along with his partner in crime'Scoop'. Mike came a rrespectable fourth at the Brits in Jersey and has been getting loose in the juice since our return.

'Go Scoop'

Although not the most skillfull with a football, hence the new tag 'Scoop' due to his ability to hook the ball skyward at any time, Matt Travis does have the ability to ride the nose with grace. This is 'Scoop' developing his act in Jersey reaching a respectable third in the British Junior Championship.

Down the lines

Our Host and chief MC

Whilst in Jersey the Davies family took us under their very generous wings and looked after so many of us it was unbelievable. Military precision got us out of bed, fed and to the beach each morning. Entertainment for the trip was provided in the form of Joe Davies who took to the Mic to MC the competition. Any organisers of any event out there, look no further, Joe is the man. Alongside him was James parry keeping the festivities going with a smooth mix of tunes and between them amused the crowd for three days with topical banter generally aimed at Elliot Dudley and his fitness regime. On top of having the 'gift of the gab' Joe also has an afinity with the nose of his singlefin, he can Hang Ten with so much finess he has made the Jersey lefts his own domain. Joe Davies, St Oens, Jersey, July 2008.

Sennen Seedling

Sorry for my lack of posts lately. After returning from Jersey we had a brief trip up country to see my folks and catch up with a few people . Part of my Jersey trip was to gather a few portraits of British surfers and this young man is Matt 'Scoop' Travis. Hes another Sennen surfer who has the natural talent and is fast becoming a stylish young surfer. Matt is following in the footsteps of Sam Bleakley and James Parry and came a very respectable third (should have been second, but the judges decided otherwise) in the Junior Division of the British Championships. Those who visit Sennen keep an eye out for Scoop, he soaks up the heritage and style of surfing and then gets loose in the juice.