Monday, 25 January 2010

Ohhh Happy Days, Ohhh Happy Days!!

After missing the clean swell on Friday, I was amped for Saturday. Unfortunately for my wife and depressingly for me, after her first classic green peeler she caught a rail on an inside section, got ejected and then smacked in the mouth by her board. After an hour getting checked in A&E and a nice hole inside her lip we came back home, too late for me to get back to the south coast perfection and I was feeling slighlty deflated but tried my hardest to not lay on the guilt! Bring on Sunday and my wife Jill hands me a green card for an afternoon of free surfing, it was like finding a gold ticket in a bar of Willy Wonkas chocalate. Myself and Pazza took our logs to the south coast and braved the cold water without boots and once again felt the wax on the boards. Clean lefts and rights, sunny day and not too busy, and my faith in my logging was restored after a few peachy little noserides. After slipping and sliding for a glorious two hours until my toes were numb, I also had time to hit the beach and snap a few shots of Pazza. Happy days and stoked again. Oh and Jill is fine!


Chris said...


mkim said...

Beautiful shot! I love it.