Life Part three

Great news...Surf Action have been short listed for ITV's Peoples Millions Big Lottery Fund and winners will be decided by a phone vote on Thursday 25th November, lines will be open between 9am and Midnight. I will publish the phone number here on the 25th when we receive it. You can also check any updates on our website www.surfaction.co.uk. Please vote for us and help us to help more people like Dean Vallis. Dean is a Royal Marine who was injured in Afghanistan, he suffered schrapnel wounds to his face and body but has been left with a sense of feeling incomplete. He wants to return and finish his tour, he's also hooked on surfing and will soon be back in Cornwall with his sister to crack on and master the art. Surf Action is about bringing families together. When Dean returned he told me he could not talk to his family about his time in Afghanistan, he felt angry, and as I'm learning basically went looking for trouble as many young soldiers do returning from conflict. This can sometimes be an early sign of problems they may face in the future. Surf Action hopes to be able to sign post these individuals to more holistic therapies if needed, alongside surfing we can make a real difference. Please vote for us on the 25th. Help Dean become a better pole dancer, but thats a different story for another time!

Life Part two

Brett Leahy is a member of 1 Rifles Regiment and came surfing with us last weekend. Brett is a classic and a funny very funny bloke. I certainly don't want my blog to be all depressing and gloomy, I want it to be inspirational and where possible tell a story or two about the people in my life of surfing at the moment. Its a very inspiring time for me at present, I never believed I would be as honoured to meet such brave young men, their stories aren't of war and terrorism or their injuries, but of friendship and others who have given everything to help others. Many of the characters that are coming surfing with us through Surf Action have hidden injuries, post traumatic stress disorder and many have physical injuries. Brett lost his leg below the knee in a vehicle explosion in Afghanistan and now has a prosthetic limb. The difficult thing for Brett is knowing that his friend driving at the time was killed in the same explosion. However, Brett should have been driving until orders were changed, imagine what that would leave spinning around in your mind. The best thing about Brett is that he's hooked on surfing, his girlfriend surfs and now he has no excuse to get on that bionic leg and rip the back out of a few peelers.

Life

This is Royal Marine Aaron Moon. If i have learnt one thing over the past year its we should never take what we have for granted. Aaron was blown up in Afghanistan by one of those IED's we keep hearing about. Aaron luckily survived but with some horrific injuries. He came surfing with us last week and gave it his all. More than anything he made us laugh like kids, Funny bloke. However, unlike most 23 year olds Aaron has made the amazing decision to have his severly damaged leg amputated below the knee. This surgery takes place this week and then he will end the chronic pain and be able to get on with a normal life with a prosthetic. He has also promised to come back and go surfing, standing up this time, and I guarantee he will.
The amazing thing though, after this weekend our good friend Bobby Donnelly, Naval Bomb Disposal, Surfer, shaper, and more importantly husband and father, over in San Diego, told us he has decided to under go the same procedure for the same reasons. After a training freefall parachute jump, Bobby smashed his leg and has since has 5 ops, rehab etc and two years of chronic pain. Both of these guys want to get on with their lives and I'm sure they will, with a passion. Get those special surf legs chaps and crack on!
Like i say don't take too much for granted.

Definition of a legend.

Meet Jamie Robertson, owner of Jamie's bed and breakfast in St Ives Cornwall. Jamie and his lovely wife are legends. The generously donated their place this past weekend to our latest Surf Action weekend (photos to come). They cooked for, cleaned for and showed such amazing generosity and kindness to a bunch of injured Royal Marines and Army lads who came down to have a crack at surfing. If anyone wants to stay at a beautiful place with amazing views over St Ives Bay, across to Godrevy lighthouse then Jamie's is the place.

Surfing is a beautiful thing...

Sometimes it's like velvet!

Joel Tudor Duct Taping

I love the idea of this competition. Leashless, singlefins, style and noseriding, the essence of what riding a log is all about. The 2nd Duct Tape Invitational sponsored by Vans starts tomorrow at Montauk on the East Coast and has some of the best of the current crop doing their best to take home the 10k. You can follow the comp on their blog vans.com/ducttape

Autumn is a time for...

Many things.

Tyler by Mike Kim

Tyler Hatzikian is without a doubt my surf hero! Great person, great surfer, great shaper, great style and love those dropknees he does so well. The shots is by photographer Mike Kim (check his link) who just happens to be one of my favourite photographers. California style in front and behind the lens.

Me again!

Could resist putting a couple more shots of me up on here. It honestly feels quite odd seeing myself surfing. Strangely nice to be in front of the lense for a change. I've also been filmed recently for a new film about our work with the veterans, can't wait to see that. Also noticed that there's not as much pie action on the mid section, the NO biscuit and dunking diet!! Good swell here at the moment and good luck to all the Local boys, especially James Parry, competing at Newquay tomorrow in the European Longboard tour.