Surf Action recently held our first week long residential working with combat veterans with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. These are a few of the guys we worked with down at Prussia Cove on the South Coast. Great week and these guys are amazing people.
Great news...Surf Action have been short listed for ITV's Peoples Millions Big Lottery Fund and winners will be decided by a phone vote on Thursday 25th November, lines will be open between 9am and Midnight. I will publish the phone number here on the 25th when we receive it. You can also check any updates on our website www.surfaction.co.uk. Please vote for us and help us to help more people like Dean Vallis. Dean is a Royal Marine who was injured in Afghanistan, he suffered schrapnel wounds to his face and body but has been left with a sense of feeling incomplete. He wants to return and finish his tour, he's also hooked on surfing and will soon be back in Cornwall with his sister to crack on and master the art. Surf Action is about bringing families together. When Dean returned he told me he could not talk to his family about his time in Afghanistan, he felt angry, and as I'm learning basically went looking for trouble as many young soldiers do returning from conflict. This can sometimes be an early sign of problems they may face in the future. Surf Action hopes to be able to sign post these individuals to more holistic therapies if needed, alongside surfing we can make a real difference. Please vote for us on the 25th. Help Dean become a better pole dancer, but thats a different story for another time!
I'm so stoked to be working alongside Rich Emerson now as part of Surf Action. Rich set the organisation up last year to help war veterans suffering from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) and last year held an event named Operation Amped where former soldiers came an enjoyed a weekend ofsurfing, yoga and good times. Our job this summer is to do more of the same, help people and their families to cope with their daily problems by showing them an escape, the ocean. Our website will be launched shortly and our events and news will also be posted on our blog combat surfer as well as this blog. I'm convinced this will be a great organisation, and when a former soldier tells you that he has not laughed so much in six years, you know your onto something very cool but most of all humbling.
This shot was taken by the legend of all legends, my inspiration to shoot those with style. Ron Stoner, Surfer magazines staff photographer unfortunaley dropped off the radar in the 70's and was never seen again. He was declared dead in the early 90's but left a legacy of amazing shots of a period in surfing that was transitional and dare I use the word being British 'radical' in changes both social and cultural. His book of images is called Photo:Stoner and should be on every surfers bookshelf.
I keep browsing the web and coming across so many great images that I want to share. Here's a classic shot by Nathan Oldfield of great stylist Matt Chojnacki. I've been away for a few days up north but have some Crinmble pictures to post over the next few days. It's warmer down here.
If anyone has not been buying the US surf mags or catching up with Drift online then you will have missed the fact that Dane Peterson, surfer extrordinaire has become and amazing snapper. Check out his link I've added. There are some truly beautiful shots here.
My article on Rich is now on Drift Europe and will be on Drift USA tomorrow. Please follow the link http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php?cat=199&desc=Interview&subcat=1
Sorry for the long absence, family visiting, half term, no internet access etc, etc. Please keep your eyes on Drfit Online Magazine this week, my story and article on Rich Emerson will be up this week, just in time to coincide with Remembrance Sunday. I'm stoked to have my second contibution on this great site. I also have some work in the new Switchfoot book that I'm super stoked with and can't wait to get my copy. The first book from Andrew Crockett was amazing, this one should be classic.
Just to remind those of us out there that would like to show there support that my good friend Rich Emerson is hosting the first 'Operation Amped UK surf camp'at Gwithian beach near St Ives. Inspired by what he saw last year at a similar event in California the surf camp is aimed at creating awareness and helping former or serving military personel suffering from Post Traumatic Stress and those that have lost limbs whilst serving in the British Forces. I'm doing an article for Drift about Richies story, himself a sufferer of PTSD, and his surfing. If you have no idea what these people go through believe me when I say I have been moved to tears over the past few weeks hearing details of Richies own suffering. Even if your anti-war, don't ignore those who are simply doing a job. Its the politicians that need a big rocket up their fat arses. Thats you Mr Brown! Ps This amazing design was created by Robbie Macintosh. see robbietoons link
Robbie Macintosh has come up absolute trumps again. Robbie was asked at very short notice for a design that would be fitting for the Operation Amped UK surf camp and this is it. Featuring both male and female service personnel this highlights the needs of both sexes now fighting or serving around the world. Thanks Robbie.
