The day I shouted C..T in the water.

Reflecting on a moment, reflecting on an action, reflecting on an emotion and reflecting on the reason can be a means to get back on track.

I had paddled out with an over amplified level of stress, it was busy and the vibe was pretty hectic. It was at my local break and it seemed like everybody wanted a wave right there and then. The trouble was so did I, I had to get a wave, one wave and it felt like my life depended on it.

I joined the pack and began hustling for a wave, I stopped, I was in position, I turned and paddled, but so did the guy inside of me up the line who had just had a wave, he’d paddled back past me into the deeper spot and this annoyed me right there and then. It was my wave because in my mind I had claimed it, I just needed one to settle me down and did not care that others might have been waiting too.

I paddled aggressively, making it obvious that I was going no matter what, I got to my feet and watched as a long left lined up and unravelled itself in front of me and then It happened. Out of habit, I glanced right and spotted the poo-stanced, pop-out riding kook coming down the line toward me. I did the honourable thing and pulled out, I could have kept going but that’s not me on the majority of occasions.

Instead I raised my hands in the air and shouted “C..T”.

People shot me bemused looks, a friend made a comment and I was instantly embarrassed and quite rightly so. The guy had done nothing wrong. I felt stupid, and pretty ashamed of myself. The guy was not the problem; it was my own emotions. I should not have paddled out that day, but I felt annoyed that this one guy had the right to have two waves on the trot. So what, I’ve done it loads of times, I’d paddled past the pack this day and chose my spot, so I asked myself did this happen for a reason?

On reflection, to feel embarrassed, stupid and angry when out surfing goes against everything that surfing is all about. I suppose when paddling out with these emotions surfing has the ability to help if you let it.  I was trying too hard, being impatient and chasing respite. If I learnt any valuable lessons that day it would be patience and humility must go hand in hand with surfing. For myself, letting go of a lot of unnecessary stresses are the result of that moment in time.

I can surf, I am happy with my surfing, surfing is part of me, I do not need every wave that comes along and nor should I. Feeling angry, stressed and emotional are good reasons to paddle down the beach a little, finding some solitude and space is the better option.  I never wanted to bring my negativity into other peoples day but I did and it affected me more than them, I looked stupid, they looked at me in the same vain as I look at people when their behaving like an idiot, so in fact, rather than take your stress out on others in the surf, go for a bike ride instead.

100k

Just noticed on the stats part of the blog that I have just gone past the 100,000 visits on this blog since I started about 7 years ago. On the 14th August 2007 I started blogging with a shot of Alex Knost getting barrelled at Putsborough in North Devon. This was my first real crack at shooting the US loggers when they made a trip to the UK and enjoyed every minute.  In the time since I started blogging I hope that it has been inspiring in some aspects and in times of no waves or terrible conditions kept the stoke alive.
I started taking surf shots in August 2005 and this blog has been a great outlet to feature some of my photography and others who have inspired me. Blogging introduced me to the great photographers like Kyle Lightner (hope all is well) and surf sites  Surfapig (my Californian Chunky Brother). On occasion my blog has been an avenue to get some of my own shots featured in a few magazines and the odd book.
I'd like to say thanks to all the amazing surfers that I have managed to shoot and hope that in some cases have helped with keeping your sponsors stoked. Although the focus has been really in the UK its been a pleasure to feature the odd trip to Californioa or Jersey and looking forward to getting some new kit and getting back out there again and shooting some new stuff soon.
I have a few exciting projects lined up this summer and into next year so please keep visiting and even if i miss a couple of days I will always post. I know some have moved away from the blogs and favour instagram or other social media feeds but blogger has never let me down, its simple and I like that.  I have loved searching other blogs and the best thing about it is you can keep up with whats happening around the globe on a daily basis and get stoked yourself to go surfing, cycling or enjoying the great outdoors.
Thanks blogger.com. thanks to the visitors of this page and here's to the next 100K and if you haven't got as blog, don't listen to those that say its so old, its not and if you like writing, what better way than to write a little each day and when you feel like it, have a rant. Just don't upset the lifeguards when you rant about the Jetskis.
Right me and the boy are off surfing.

Triples and Terry

Back in 2010 we travelled to California to work with some US Military personnel. Whist we were the we took a trip to the Sacred Craft show and had the great pleasure of meeting some of the legends including this amazingly nice bloke..Terry Martin.

Sadly not with us today I did have the opportunity to get my hands dirty on one of his Legacy Models that he was shaping right then in the shapers booth. Now I love a triple stringer at the best of times but something that will always nag me is not buying a Legacy.

I was so nervous running the sanding block down this board and Terry just encouraged me all the way, "you wont hurt it keep going" he said. About 20 seconds after this photo was taken I  gave it back and was humbled by his kindness and generosity.

Its funny that Terry Martin RIP was the shaper of a board that just holds true to its name,  younger shapers like Tyler Warren and iconic boards like the Legacy Model will carry this personal hand shaped ethos on for ever. Great people and great boards.

Wild West Shooters

A lot of Californian and australian shapers seem to looking at the midlength/transitional type boards. Jools at Gulf Stream shaped me this 8'2" this summer and have to say its the best fun I've had surfing in years. Long enough to feel stable and a little shorter to get jiggy in the juice and single fin to keep it flowing. Contact Jools at Gulf Stream and simply ask for a Wild West Shooter, you cant go wrong, and if your missis wants a board thats not 9 foot and a bitch to carry down the beach...get one of these. My wife loves this board.

Surf Smart

Snapped this little shot of Sam Smart ripping at the weekend. I have the same wetsuit but can't do this so where it for work instead!!

Sweet Home Sennen

What a beautiful day!!

KooK Issue 3.

I'm sure many of you avid surfers have partaken in a cup of fine tea, a hob nob and a read of the new Kook mag/paper. If you haven't, its a great read and availabe here. I am fortunate enough to have a piece in there called Visualised Drifter (excuse a couple of typos), but if you haven't seen it yet, my bit is available here on my website. By the way this shot (which I'm quietly stoked with) is John Eldridge, great surfer, creative lord, and contributor to the fine KOOK, doing what he does best, styling. I must also add that Kook is put together by Dan Crockett and Alex Rowse, two more creative lords.

Me and the boy

Me and Jago strolling down for a wave. Thanks to dave Muir for this photo taken at this years Hip Wigglers.

Hip WIgglers on Film

Amazing little edit by John Eldridge and his fiance Mathilda of the Hip Wigglers a couple of weeks back. Such a great day and have to say again and again the level of longboarding was so high. Honoured to be an invitee amongst these boys and gals.

Party Waves at the Wigglers

Oran Lynch is an amazing young surfer, he will get better and better and will one day be one of the very best. The good thing about Oran is he loves a party wave, especially at the Hip Wigglers, and on this occassion with an old duffer like me. These were two of ours in our heat; the first one I forgot he was there and after performing this immensely stylish drop knee turn and what the next fram would have showed is Oran nearly fricking spearing me with his log!!! The second, we shared a ride on my log but I held onto him so tightly (more for the balance of an old man) he couldn't get to the nose. This ride won us £50 beautiful pounds, who says dropping in does not pay!! Thanks to Gavin at Finshack for the shots.

My own site..yeeeww!

Whilst being on staycation at home in Sennen I have finally got round to putting a my own website together. Its not your singing and all that dancing kind of website but I think it looks pretty good and its a start. Please go over and take a look at a few of the galleries and work. I have included a selection of articles I have written over the years which has inspired me to write some more and work on some new projects. These ones were well received so why not have another crack. You can see the site here.

Condensed

An oldie but I like it.

Me by Liam

A portrait of me by photographer Liam Nichol. You can see more of his great work here. Liam or Buster as many of us know him has a style of surf photography that I love, long shots, a little grainy but always an essence of style. Tattoo by Shakey Pete at Drunken Sailor in Newquay.

Slide 65 For Sale

My Slide 65 is now up for sale. Dimensions are 9'6" x 23" x 17.5 Nose x 15" tail. Glassed in pivot fin and a slight concave through the nose. This board is a beauty and in mint condition. Cost £550 ono. call Russ on 07989535163 or email russ96uk@yahoo.com SOLD.

LOg Time

Rich Emerson and his new Pig an myself and the Sunday Driver fresh from Slide 65. Rob and Seabase kindly donated their time and materials to develop two beauties for myself and Rich for Surf Action. We'll be using these to promote the work we do and the benefits to health of surfing and being in the ocean. Stoked already as they are amazing boards and are both super good. Thanks guys.

Son of a Sailor (Oran Lynch)

Oran getting casual.

Oran Lynch take a look.

Oran Lynch, 12 years old and a student of the fine art of noseriding. check out his blog here. Oran is one of those groms who is embracing the global surf culture at the moment. He's not mad keen on Surf Comps but is glued to the ASP when its on, counts Joel Tudor and Dane Reynolds as super peers andhas one of those blogs you have to keep going back to. He walks around with a lo-fi fisheye and a 35mm looking for the next opportunity. This is one creative little dude.

Flying the flag

As part of our efforts to promote Surf Action and ultimately help and support our combat veterans, myself and Rich took delivery of our new logs and are so stoked. The two boards, shaped by Rob Wright and glassed and finished at Seabase in Newquay will certainly create some conversation about our charity and if they simply achieve this then its a bonus. The following is a press release written to explain more:

Surf Action proudly announces a collaboration of local businesses.

Surf Action the St Buryan based military charity is very proud to announce a collaboration of Cornish businesses that will have wider benefits in today’s tough economic climate. Surfboard shaper Rob Wright of Slide 65 Surfboards kindly agreed to donate his time and skills to create two unique longboards and Seabase general manager Pani Bundy then generously offered the materials and finishing skills of his team based in Newquay.
Surf Action Director Russ Pierre says “These boards have been designed to be a focal point for promotion of each business; not only will they help create awareness of Slide 65 and Seabase but also a talking point for Surf Action and the work we do supporting Combat Veterans, and the benefits of surfing to those with mental health problems or physical injuries”.
Rob Wright commented "I have embraced hand-shaping these boards for Rich and Russ to show my support, for their dedication, helping veterans find a better life through surfing."
Jennifer Macdonald says “Seabase UK is very proud to announce our support in 2012 for the Cornwall based charity 'Surf Action'. Both Surf Action and Seabase will have the strong connection of being founded and managed in Cornwall and with surfing at the very heart of both. Seabase finished the surfboards for Surf Action at its factory in Newquay and we hope that our support will assist this well worthy cause and attract even greater attention and awareness from the public."
Seabase have generously offered a large discount on all their Custom boards and accessories to all serving military personnel and veterans as part of a loyalty scheme being developed by Surf Action. Other companies have also offered discounts and Surf Action is working hard to attract more to offer their support. Russ says “we have veterans who use art, sculpture and photography as therapy, one rebuilds old cars and others enjoy Tai Chi, we’re looking for companies to sign up to our loyalty scheme or sponsor veterans to aid in re-training and personal development.”
Having the RAF Waveriders club based at RAF St Mawgan and the Royal Navy Royal Marines Boardriders based at Culdrose, Surf Action shall be promoting this through their clubs and clubhouses. Rich Emerson, founder of Surf Action and combat veteran himself adds, “we have just been asked to be longboard coaches for the Army Surf Team and what a better way to begin the coaching than with two great boards flying the flag, we can display these boards at events and promote the workmanship and the benefits of surfing and our charity”.
For more details of the loyalty scheme and companies offering discounts and if veterans or serving personnel would like to register simply go to www.surfaction.co.uk and register your name online to receive a loyalty card. Alternatively email russ@surfaction.co.uk with your details or call 01736 811920. For details about the boards go to www.Slide65.com and www.seabase.eu
Editors Notes: Surf Action was started in 2009 and uses Surfing and the Beach Environment to support Combat Veterans with mental and physical injuries. Partly funded by funded by the European Social Fund and run by Inclusion Cornwall they are an award winning project and registered charity (no.1140191). Sennen surfers Rich Emerson and Russ Pierre run Surf Action that hold beach clinics for veterans and their families each Wednesday and Friday at Gwithian Towans, Nr Hayle.

Slide 65 by Velvia

Thanks to Buster I just got my first role of Velvia back, in fact my first role of film for about ten years. Its been cross processed and i'd not bothered getting the slides done as being a kook I had opened the camera fearing the worst. its my Dads old yashica but can't afford film, processing etc but theres a few on the role I'm stoked with so might do some more. I took this ages ago and did the same shots with my DSLR as well, but this is so much nicer.

Mr Natty trimming

Mr Natty getting to grips with my barnet at the fish fry.